Wednesday 26 October 2016

I slept on pavements




In Saint Bachomuos El-Shayeb Monastery in Luxor, I sat to the ground with those ringing the bells and singing hymns. In the Monastery of Saint Pishoy, I went deep into the monastery until I reached the sacred place where monks must kneel at entering. Father Sedrak, later became archbishop of Jerusalem may he rest in peace, was at the monastery at that time. We had discussions I believe were very rich. In Saint Mark’s Coptic Orthodox Cathedral, I had a three-hour discussion with Pope Shenouda III. It was such a great spiritual and mental experience.

In the yards of mosques of al-Badawi, ad-Dessouqi, ash-Shazli and al-Qenawi and on the pavements surrounding the mosques of Ahl al-Bayt like Imam al-Hussain, Sayyidah Zainab or Um Hashem the virgin, Sayyidah Nafisa, the one who read Quran seventy times in the place where she was later buried in and whom Imam ash-Shafi’i was her student, there I wore shabby clothes and went bare-footed watching manifestations of Shath over the faces of the poor… or once can say the loving dervishes.

I once had an official invitation to visit Iraq. The one who met me there blamed me for refusing past invitations he offered me when he was an ambassador for Iraq in Egypt. He asked me anxiously: “Have you come this time to meet Mr. Vice-President?” He meant Taha Yassin Ramadan. I said: “No… to meet someone more important.” The man got alerted and asked cautiously and respectfully: “Do you mean that you’re gonna meet the president?” He meant Saddam Hussein– May the president and the vice-president rest in peace –I said: “No… more important one.” The man got annoyed for he thought I was making joke of a serious matter. I immediately said: “First of all, I came to visit Imam Ali, Imam Junayd of Baghdad and al-Hallaj!”

Indeed in the day when I arrived, I headed in the afternoon to the shrine of Junayd and next to him was “Sirri Saqti”. Next to them lies the shrine of prophet Moses’s assistant whose name as written was Yusha’ ibn Nun. Next to the shrines of Junayd and Sirri Saqti was a palm tree with the most delicious dates I ever tasted dropping from it. Also there was a natural spring whose water was of the purest I ever drank. After this, I went to Imam Mousa al-Kazem but couldn’t go to Najaf.

I also went close to Ar-Rawda Ash-Sharifa of prophet Muhammed– peace be upon him –in Medina. There, I cried, supplicated to God and begged him in pain asking for a life!

Whenever I imagine our beloved Egypt without its guardians whose ancestors go back to the time of Idris or Osiris, or imagine that it lost its inherent powers, I had a feeling telling me it’s the end of the world. However, I immediately drive away this nightmare that haunts my soul whenever I see stony-hearted Makhioun, Burhami, al-Huwaini and the terrorists whom stones are even softer than them.

I asked God to facilitate the way for me to visit al-Badawi and ad-Dessouqi as their Mawaled[1] are celebrated these days. However, I couldn’t make it to them. I felt sad for this, for facilitation is a sign of giving permission to go. So, I went reading their supplicating prayers and immersing myself in the books talking about their lives hoping that reading may make up some of what I missed in the visit.

In the monasteries, mosques’ yards and over pavements of Sufi figures, the unique fabric of our country is manifested and strength of our national woven-braid appears. A normal human cannot help but getting touched by the hymns chanted in monasteries and churches and Inshad[2] and supplications sung in the mosques’ yards and pavements. I do not exaggerate or imagine when I say that your soul receives, through your ears, the beauty of the Christian hymns in the church and continues listening to the Sufi supplications sung in the mosques’ yards or pavements feeling they complete one another for they both come from the same pure spring.

In Dessouq resides Sidi Ibrahim ad-Dessouqi… ibn Abu al-Magd… ibn Quraish… ibn Muhammed… ibn Abu an-Nagaa… ibn Zayn al-Abdin… ibn Abdel-Khaleq… until we reach Ga’far az-Zakki… ibn Ali… ibn Muhammed al-Gawwad… ibn Ali ar-Reda… ibn Mousa al-Kazem… ibn Ga’far as-Sadeq… ibn Muhammed al-Baker… ibn Ali Zayn al-Abdin… ibn al-Hussain… ibn Ali… ibn Abu Taleb the Hashemite of Quraish.

According to what Ali Pasha Mubarak said in his book titled “Al-Khetat Al-Tawfiqiya” in which he described Egypt’s old and famous cities, Dessouq is “A great city and a capital for a province in Gharbia governorate– it affiliates now to Kafr El Sheikh governorate which was not yet established at the time –looking over the east bank of Rosetta branch of the Nile, lying south to Fuwwah and takes two hours to reach it from there… it contains palaces with windows made of glass and iron including the palace of Abdelaal Bek, council chief of Gharbia, another one for Imam al-Qasabi, Sheikh of Sidi Ahmed al-Badawi mosque, a third for Bassyouni al-Far near to Demera… it also contains eleven Kuttab or places teaching Muslim children about Quran… water stations with one of them belonging to the lady of the high social standing Ain al-Hayat… it also contains three mosques, the biggest and most famous of them is that of Sidi Ibrahim ad-Dessouqi which some Sultans first built then later was widened and re-designed by Sultan Qaitbay… right now– 1293 Hijri calendar –it’s being renovated in the time of Khedive Ismail by me Ali Mubarak.”

In the book titled “At-Tabaqat Al-Kubra” authored by Sidi Abdel-Wahhab al-Sha’rani, Sidi Ibrahim ad-Dessouqi is mentioned in more than 25 pages of the big size; pages filled with very beautiful words written by Imam of Shari’a and truth; Imam ad-Dessouqi. Of his beautiful words I end my article with an excerpt of it saying: “The one who is really close to God regards his good deeds as sins… and if God punished him for his negligence, that would have been fair.” He used to say: “My sons… go seek knowledge… don’t stop and don’t get bored for Allah said to his prophet “And say, “My Lord, increase me in knowledge”… compare this to what we are now, for we are weaker in a different time… you seek more knowledge to know more about God.”

May God bless your soul Abu al-Ainain in your birth memory.

Translated into English by: Dalia Elnaggar




This article was published in Almasry alyoum newspaper on Ocotober 26, 2016.

To see the original article, go to:

#almasry_alyoum #ahmed_elgammal #Sufism




[1] Mawaled: (Arabic: موالد) plural of Mawled (مولد) or Meelad (ميلاد) is the observance of the birthday of an iconic figure in religious or cultural heritage which is celebrated once a year
[2] Inshad: (Arabic: إنشاد) a kind of chanting that makes musical sound with the voice. It’s found in both Islamic and Christian heritage.

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